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Too big to flail, la prova di coraggio di Nick Hausen

Altra ripetizione per questo highball/solitaria di Buttermilk

Alex Honnold prima salita, Lonnie Kauk seconda salita. Bastano quest due nomi per capire la felicità di essere ancora vivo provata da Nick Hausen quando si è messo in piedi sulla cima di questo mostro di Buttermilk, Bishop, California, nello sfondo delle montagne appena innevate della Sierra. ” I wanted to see if I’m fit to find who I truly am thru risk, or to drop it all and become a casual passionate climber”, una salita interpretata quindi dal giovane americano come lo spartiacque tra il diventare un big della scalata pericolosa oppure il lasciar perdere e diventare un semplice appassionato. V10/5.13d è il grado ufficiale, poi ci sarebbe il grado paura…

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“Too Big to Flail”-v10/13D Prepare yourself. This post will be as long as Too Big is tall… First thing first, the support I received from my tightly knit bishop framily is what makes this achievement something that I will surely never forget. To share something like this with people that I truly care for is a gift. The BEST gift. They’re the reason I get to share my moment with the rest of the world… Too Big was, in my mind, a test… it was my ultimatum…. to see if I’m fit to find who I truly am thru risk, or to drop it all and become a casual passionate climber. I wanted to push myself on something that was cusping my limits. To see what I can achieve with a wholehearted obsession that I let take me over, mind and body. I’ve been trying to understand why I’m driven towards the routes that show risk with an open hand…. for some odd reason it’s the only thing I’ve found that makes me feel real… In those moments of calm precise movement in a potential life altering position, I feel the most alive! With Too Big, the part that blew my mind while sending was how calm and stoked I was grasping onto its tiny holds in insecure positions. I had ground the moves into my body over the course of 4 days, but those sessions were maybe one or two goes roped and pre-send, I had only successfully climbed it from bottom to top once on a rope. But with that small hurdle achieved I felt an immediate sense of confidence. The morning of I went for a run around 7 o’clock out to the climb. I had a small amount of nervousness, which I believe was more so the organization of people, pads, cameras etc, than the climb itself. “Is today the day? Am I sure? I’ve only sent it once… Is that enough? What if it’s not and I’m dragging all of my friends into a bad situation?” These questions flooded my brain on my way over to The Secrets and started to push doubt into my brain… but the second I rounded the corner and glared at the route, I no longer had any doubt on my mind…. “you’re mine today mother fucker!” I felt slightly ridiculous for yelling at a boulder but it served as a message to myself…. All doubt was gone and I KNEW I could do it… -(Continues in comments)

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I've seen some impressive stuff in my time out here in Bishop… but I've never seen anything as impressive as watching Nick become the sixth ascentionist of the proudest line in Bishop, the 50 foot mega-highball, Too Big to Flail (V10). He had an unexpected crowd, and I'm sure he felt the pressure to perform. But even after taking a 25 foot fall (that's 25 feet of air under his damn feet, not hands at 25 feet), he calmly and confidently executed this monster five minutes later. This clown even took a quick pause, 35 feet off the deck, to look over and stick his goofball tongue out when he knew the final 5.12 slab to the top was in the bag. You're a maniac, buddy. Congratulations doesn't cut it with this one. #bishopbouldering #bouldering #buttermilks #tbtf #highball

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