Abbiamo ospitato sulle nostre pagine Datca, Turchia, nel corso del 2017, mostrando l’enormità di queste linee di calcare a canne, peraltro non troppo lontane, in linea d’aria, dalla famosissima Kalymnos. A preparare l’articolo era stato Lorenzo Doria, mentre a chiodare in questa zona della provincia di Bodrum sono un gruppo di locals che stanno preparando una guida, e un francese da tempo trapiantato sul luogo, Adrien Boulon. E’ stato lui a invitare il top climber Seb Bouin a visitare e a chiodare una nuova linea in un nuovo enorme settore, chiamato Cyclop. Seb, sperando di scovare un 9b, ha “putroppo” per lui trovato “solo” un 8c+, ma di che livello qualitativo! Insomma un’altro invito a programmare Datca per le proprie vacanze verticali,
The aim of my Turkish trip with my mom was to bolt and climb THE Mega Line of a new sector in Datça. And this goal is finally achieved !!!
First time I heard about this line, it was Adrien Boulon who told me about futuristic king lines in Turkey. Then he showed me a picture. After seeing this pic, I was definitly motivated to come..
This crag looks like a giant eye. The name of this route is “Lily’s eye” tribute to my grand mother. She will always keep an eye on our family. It was a great experience to share that with my mom!
This line is incredible because of many things. It’s a mega overhanging tuffa line of 80 metters, it seems to be the perfect line. There are three parts Inside the route. First one is not so overhanging (this means not a roof :DDD) with a beautiful blue tuffa climbing. Then comes the overhanging part with mega tuffa in the roof. And to finish there is the harder part with beautifull overhanging wall with small pinches.
Bolting this route was a little mission. In fact, It’s so huge that everything take a lot of time. To go on the top of the crag took us hours because there are crags everywhere around this sector. Put the bolts and clean the route take also time because the route is huge and there are a lot of tuffas. But it’s a super experience ! About the grade, I was hoping for a perfect 9b – 5.15b before to come here. But it’s finally a bit easier. Anyway, I spent super good moments here and share a super experience with my mom. So grade is finally not so important to me. It will probably be around the 8c+ – 5.14c. You never know before botlting how it will be to the end. This route is anyway one of the best I bolted in my life. I hope more people will come to try it because it’s a gem!!! During this trip I also climbed in the famous Canbaba sector. I was mixing climbing and bolting during the rest days. So I also tried a super good project in Canbaba sector. It’s a Klemen becan route called “out of Energy”. I was super close to do it, but I finally didn”t send it. At the begening I was thinking this route not so hard. After trying it few times I understood that it’s finally hard! So I was psyche to continue further in this project. Yet, I had this bolting project “Lily’s eye” which took me time and Energy. Also the weather wasn’t so good, and the canbaba cave is now fully wet… Anyway, I already bolted a right extension of the Klemen Becan route. It could be harder (9a+? – 5.15a?). And it’s a good Opportunity to come back in Datça . There is super good vibes here in Datça to bolt the new “Cyclop” secteur. The best crew is here to put other king lines. Many thank’s to Zorbey Aktuyun, Ivan Muscat, Adrien Boulon, William Barchelo, Jose Miguel Parada Ortega, Francois Poncet, Etienne Paireau Antoine Moineville Guide to develop this new gem.