Se Coleman fa sul serio anche sulle vie…

Bollato (autobollato) come boulderista fin da inizio carriera, Nathaniel Coleman è l’imbattibile leader degli ultimi nationals americani di boulder; diciamo l’Alex Puccio al maschile. L’abbiamo recentemente presentato al pubblico italiano con una intervista su Pareti di carta, dove era immoralato alla caccia della rotpunkt su una enorme grotta strapiombante a stelle e strisce. Ora la RP è arrivata per questa prima salita nel caldo invernale dell’Arizona e il grado non viene indicato da Nathaniel se non con un sistema molto americano 5.14+, cioè da qualche parte nell’ampio range di quel grado. 9a? 9a+? Ma sono cose che succedono, quando i boulderisti che non sanno gradare le vie ma che stringono come dannati si legano a una corda, e la ghisa monta solo molto molto avanti…

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Lee Majors, 5.14+ (📸 @neilson.ben) 💎 The route breaks down into two or three sections: the intro snaps you into gear with a tensiony V10 followed by two hero jumps and a kneebar sequence to exit the roof. After an almost no hands kneebar, the route follows the lip of the cave with quite a few foot tricks; toe hook, heel hook, heel toe cam, la mae (is that how you spell it?), this sequence has it all. This takes you straight into the final boulder. I couldn't dream of a better sequence to guard the chains. A big left hand throw over a mini roof opens your body fully to the left with your feet carrying on behind you. Swinging your feet back on takes precision, and engaging a right drop knee takes some serious hamstring, but it's necessary in order to match the left hand. Loaded like a spring, launch for the clipping jug, and clip off the one hand deadhang (key beta). This final boulder probably clocks in at V9. It can be tough to grade a route, especially when you're a boulderer, and the route is kinda perfectly your style, and harder than anything else you've ever tried. In the end I was able to outrun the pump, and the 60 feet of climbing felt similar to executing a boulder problem. My understanding of route grades versus my own ability isn't good enough to grade this beauty. That being said, if you are planning to test yourself against this magnificent cave, be ready for some 5.14c or d effort. @prAna @petzl_official @fiveten_official @frictionlabs @gnarlynutrition

A post shared by Nathaniel Coleman (@nathaniel.coleman) on Dec 3, 2018 at 9:28am PST