Jungle Boogie 9a+ per Stefano Carnati

Una delle superdure di Ceuse

Stefano Carnati non aveva chiuso la sua avventura con Ceuse dopo la ripetizione del mito di Biographie; aveva fatto anche dei tentativi sulla meno ripetuta Jungle Boogie 9a+, linea liberata da Ondra e ripetuta anche da Stefano Carnati e Sachi Amma. Più di venti metri di arcuate violente, un passo di precisone più duro degli altri e poi la classica placca dove non bisogna cadere anche se più facile. Ecco che cosa ne dice Stefano sulla sua pagina Instagram:

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Numbness • Made it back to Céüse for a three days trip with @gabrimoroni and @climbemall_ , taking advantage of the good weather conditions and finished off my project! My story with this route begins last year in April. After the send of “Biographie” I wanted to find another good project to try and the choice fell on “Three deegres of sepration”, but very soon I understood the dyno move was too far out of reach for me. So I shortly decided to change and check this other line, despite being scared by the fact that I had only seen a few people on it and by the things I had heard. Yet I immediately realized it suit my style quite well and the battle began. The pieces of the puzzle were rapidly coming together, so I soon started giving it promising tries, coming close in late May. The idea was to return in September, but eventually I couldn’t find the time. Waiting is a big part of every project, but with the weird situation the world faced this year, waiting was even harder and planning to visit Céüse this season seemed unrealistic. Fortunately as soon as borders were opened I had the chance to come back… and luckily with that slightly more power than last year! 25 really intense moves, on some of the sharpest crimps I’ve ever grabbed, without any rests, make up the first part of the route. The redpoint crux consists of a reachy lock off to a good two fingers pocket, which was not that hard for me to do individually, but coming from the ground it really became a struggle against finger numbness after so much crimping. Happily last friday everything worked out all right! Reaching the jug at the end of this sequence was a moment of pure joy, but staying present on the upper easier 20 metres slab (no fall zone) without any more energies and sensation in my fingers was definitely the real mental challenge. And it lasted fifteen long minutes! Thank you @marci_bomb for the send belay and all the other people cheering! And… merci Céüse💚 • JUNGLE BOOGIE [9a+] ✔️ • #climbing #falling #ceuse #france @camp1889 @scarpaspa @dfsportspecialist @rockexperienceofficial @ragnidilecco @asd_ragnidilecco @skillsrls

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