“La via più dura
che ho mai fatto!”
Ecco, questo nuovo mostro di roccia orizzontale si trova a Margalef e Iker Pou, terzo al mondo a salire “Action Directe”, è riuscito a liberarla dopo sei anni (!) di tentativi, ovviamente inframmezzati da avventure verticali in tutto il mondo. Ma lui è IL vero specialista mondiale dei mono e biditi, un po’ come Fred Rouhling lo era dei tetti no foot negli anni ’90, e quindi è probabile che siamo in presenza della via più dura del mondo in questo specifico genere. Iker, che adesso ha la bellezza di 41 anni, non si sbilancia sul grado, ma mette sul piatto il fatto che questa via è più dura di 9a+ del tutto simili come “Demencia senil” della quale Iker aveva fatto la seconda salita.
That the Pou brothers do not know what it is to be quiet knows everyone, what perhaps nobody expected is that the small of Basque Brothers would surprise his 41 years (for almost 42), surpassing his own level in sport climbing , with the first ascent of “Artaburu” in the Tarragona rocks of Margalef (Catalonia). Said by himself: <“It’s the most difficult sport climbing route I’ve ever done. Also the one that has cost me the most. It has been six years, and although it is true that the dedication has not been full, because in between there have been many expeditions, trips and work, it has been very hard for me to keep motivating for so long> ” And taking into account that who says it has climbing routes as famous as “Action Direct” 9a (Second world repetition) in 2000, “Dementia Senil” 9 a + (First world repetition, 2010), “Nit de Bruixes” 9 a + ( First world ascent, and nowadays it is believed that it is probably 9b, 2012), or, “Big Men” 9 a + (First world ascent and even without repeating, 2.014) is to take it into account. The Pou Brothers usually say that looking for the simile with the athletics, the sport climbing would be the 100 meters (Pure power), while the expeditions would be the Marathon (physical and psychological resistance). Imagine therefore what can be for a person of 41 years, overcome their own level in the most physical section of the climb. Regarding the proposal of the difficulty of the route Iker prefers to be cautious: <“To me the route has cost me a lot; infinitely more than my 9 a + previous, but I have no reference to routes that are above this level, with what I prefer to be the consensus of future repetitions that will end up fixing a specific grade. The only thing I can say is that the route is very good and I think it will be a reference of difficulty in the coming years “. Artaburu is a perfect roof, well not quite perfect, because it goes in inclination even descending !, of around 15-20 m, where the holes of one and two fingers predominates; an authentic party therefore of onefingerpocket and twofingerpockets on a roof that only to see it is scary. Very few feet and those that are very bad, with what you have to constantly fly them from one hole to another, becoming an extremely physical climb over grabs in extension. It was in 2012 when Iker, with the vision in the search for avant-garde ways that characterizes him, came across this line for the first time. It was three days of hard work to bolt it and many more to get the methods first and the sequences later. Subsequently, attempts and more attempts would come up to take it out with two falls, then one, until finally getting it out this fall of 2.018. But between half of these six years, in the head of Iker not only has been “Artaburu”, the Pou have visited half the world as witness the ascension of Cerro Torre (Patagonia) and the first free to Tarrago (Catalonia) in 2013 , the attempt to Baghirathi in the Himalayas of 2014, the four open routes in Siberia (Arctic Circle) in 2015, the first in free to “Marejada Force 6” in the Naranjo de Bulnes in the year 2016, or, the openings of “Aupa 40” (Patagonia), “Yakumama” (Amazonia) and “Zerain” (Cordillera Real Andina), in addition to the first one in free to “Quio Vado Ancora” of 2.017. Until reaching this 2,018, that the Basque Brothers do not hesitate to cross it “as the best of its trajectory”: They started climbing on ice in Norway, then the opening the “Agur” route 8 a + / 400 m in the Moroccan Atlas, in summer they opened and climbed in free “Leve Leve” 8b + / 400 m in addition to first free climb of “Nubivagant” 8b / 400 m, both in the African island of Sao Tome, later the openings and first in free of “Kolpez Kolpe” 7c+/8a-170 m and “Babe Magnet” 8a+/170 m in Mallorca, as well as the opening of Eneko alone and from below of “Polvorilla”7b + / 170 m also on the Balearic island, to end with this futuristic climb of “Artaburu”. For this next 2.019 -that they expect to be as good as the previous one-, for the moment they will leave for Patagonia Argentina in January, while they prepare what will be the main course, which will be none other than the section “Earth” within their project ” The North Face 4 Elements “, with which they hope to put the icing on this interesting macro project that began in January of the year 2.017.