Core testa l’Isosthenic System

Un nuovo modo di mettere le dita al trave

Christian Core, plurivincitore della Coppa del Mondo di Boulder, insieme al medico chirurgo Kelios Bonetti, sta testando l’Isosthenic System, un nuovo modo di allenare le dita in modalità “stese”, per consentire un allenamento magari meno realistico ma assai meno traumatico per allenare la forza delle dita. E’ una idea molto interessante, specie se si arriverà alla produzione di attrezzi in serie dotati della possibilità di customizzare la posizione dei supporti di legno o di resina, in modo da adattarli alla dimensione, alla lunghezza e alla forma delle dita di ciascuno. Christian attualmente vive e lavora in Canada, a Vancouver, dove scala e allena i migliori atleti della nazione nordamericana.

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NEW FINGER TRAINING CONCEPT – ISOSTHENIC SYSTEM I thought I'd share an interesting finger training concept that my friend Dr. Kelios Bonetti @keliosbonetti and I came up with during a climbing day when we were discussing ideas for integrative hang training (Integrative and not replacing) that allowed the fingers to work in a much more neutral way. So we've developed and are testing what we have called the "Isosthenic" system. So far I've tested on myself, some friends and on several athletes of my teams with good results. To explain the idea behind it, we need to first look at how we usually train which is on a straight edge. In this case, because our fingers are different lengths, each individual finger will work differently, which puts greater stress on the two middle fingers (see the image above), as they are longer which give more risk to inflammation on the first joints of those fingers and tears of the A2 pulleys in the middle and ring fingers. In order to compensate for the different length in fingers, we also often slightly bend the wrists to allow a better finger position on the edge. Despite this, it's still important to train on the straight edges because it's most like what we find when actually climbing and this type of edge is definitely the safest edge to finger train on. This new Isosthenic system we have developed would be used alongside traditional finger training, involves setting up individual slightly rounded edges for each finger at the correct position for your hand size so that each individual finger can work in a uniform, equal way. In this way, each finger will be supporting the same weight, will not be bent more than the others, and the fingers and wrist will be kept in alignment. I've included some images to show this. This is still in the testing phase but so far we've had some great results and would like to include it in future training. What are peoples thoughts? #keliosbonetti #corechristian @coreclimber #fingertraining #climbingtraining

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