Larcher e Zangerl in libera su Magic Mushroom, El Cap

Francois Lebeau

Larcher e Zangerl riescono su “Magic Mushroom”, a El Cap

Liberata nel maggio del 2012 da Tommy Caldwell e Justen Sjong, Magic Mushroom, una sottile linea indipendente a sinistra del Muir Wall, aperta in artif nel 1972 da Steve Sutton e Hugh Button. Ci sono dodici tiri dal 5.13 al 5.15 (7c+-8b). Di tutte le vie estreme in libera Magic non è la più dura, ma è probabilmente la più diretta ed elegante. Jacopo Larcher e Barbara Zangerl sono riusciti nella ripetizione integrale in libera e, ovviamente, nella prima femminile.

"Free Magic Mushroom" aka "one of the best route we've ever climbed! • I looked at the topo of this climb for a couple of years, but I didn't really know what it looked like in reality. I expected a lot of hard climbing, but not so many 5 stars (chimney) pitches in a row: what a beauty! • We had to invest a lot of energies in this one. We had to clean a lot of pitches, figure out how to climb all those crazy corners, haul a lot of gear and spend a lot of days on the wall. At the beginning we were just contemplating those pitches, wondering how it could even be possible to climb them. We had to be really creative and use every single part of our body to work our way up those corners. I personally suck at this type of climbing, so it has been a real challenge and, at the same time, a huge satisfaction to climb it. • Once more, we learned how passion, perseverance, believe and team work can make your dreams come true! • Big thanks to @barbarazangerl for sharing this adventure together, for the unforgettable moments on the wall and for the support: it was a blast! It's such a better end to both realize our goal and to share it together!♥️ • Big up once more to @tommycaldwell: I still can't immagine how someone could climb all those pitches in a day. You're a hero! • @thenorthface @lasportivagram @blackdiamond @sterlingrope @frictionlabs – 📸 @francoislebeau

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