Filip Babicz propone M16 DTS (record mondiale) per Oswiecenie a Zakopane

Filip Babicz, atleta dell’esercito italiano, ha completato la sua trilogia di progetti nella buia grotta di Zakopane, Polonia, liberando anche la lunghissima (75 metri) Oswiecenie e proponendo il super grado di M16 DTS, cioè senza l’utilizzo di Yaniro. Facendo un paragone che in questa particolarissima disciplina del dry tooling rischia di essere improprio, la via “entra in competizione” come M più duro del mondo con il mostro liberato da Gordon Macarthur in Canada “Storm Giant”, documentato con un bel video dalla casa Louder than Eleven qui

Il grado è stato assegnato da Filip sulla base del confronto con le altre vie da lui liberate nella grotta polacca e sulla base delle opinioni di alcuni visitors che sono venuti a provarle. Ha assegnato il grado M per via della presenza di alcune parti ghiacciate. Rimarchiamo il non utilizzo delle Yaniro, il che differenzia parecchio salita di Filip da quella di Macarthur, realizzata in stile tradizionale.

 

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I did it! I did it! I DID IT!! I am so so happy!!!! 4 days before leaving my native Zakopane and going back to Italy I did first ascent of Oświecenie (Enlightment), my drytooling project in Zakopane's Dryland. 1 hour and 8 minutes after leaving the ground in the deepest point of the cave I sat down in the snow in the forest outside, up over the hole. What a journey this was, 62 meters of the biggest fight in my life. It was really incredible… I experienced new level of exhaustion unknown to me until this climb. At some point about 40 meters from the start, I didn't know anymore I still had any control of my body. I just had to trust and advance. And now I am really fulfilled. After previously doing the hardest route here – Bafomet D14 at the end of 2017 and setting the hardest project, Blair Witch D15, 2 weeks ago, I created this line which I wanted to be "non plus ultra" for this spot. It is the longest and the hardest logical possible line here, incomparably harder from previous ones, and the hardest climb I’ve ever done. Prior to this ascent I held twenty sessions here in the last 1,5 month all of which plus twenty years of climbing experience, inhumane motivation and training were relevant to this success. It is just a perfect culmination of my activity in this location. Last but not least I want to say big THANK YOU to two people: my father @krzysztof_babicz_przewodnik who helped me to bolt this project and who supported me until the last moment and another "quiet hero" of this ascent @grzegorzbargiel.pl . After created this project, he was the only person who helped me try it and succeed. He was the only person who was able to sacrifice his time to come here with me and belay. Without you both this dream moment wasn't possible. Thank You also everyone who lend me equipment neccessery for realized this project. #zakopane #drytooling #climbing #climb #dry #beautifulmoment #senseoflife

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